![]() The 3 hole fitting did not come about on the Fords until the later 8N's and later. Will lift the plow slightly to clear the area and then return when softer ground is entered. Is encountered, that will cause the toplink to push on the toplink fitting and the hydraulics To compensate for ground hardness for instance like when plowing. System which uses the toplink to provide sensing for the automatic movement of the hydraulics The use of the different toplink holes started with the Ford 9N. Well that's my take on the subject, lets see just how many different readers tear it up!:confused3: I assume the manufactures installed this stopper because all 3pth hitch functions do not require draft control and by defeating the function there isn't any ware and tear on the draft control linkage inside of the top hydraulic manifold. That is a very basic sequence of operation, but for most of us with newer tractors the different positions really only help as top link adjustment because the draft control function is defeated by a stopper placed between the top link bracket and the hydraulic cover so the draft control does not function unless the stopper is removed. The draft control operates to reduce drag on the tractor as ground engagement equipment drags in the soil so the tractor RPM and speed isn't changed during a chore (plowing is most common) because as the plunger is pressed in but the force created by the drag created by the ground the hydraulic system will automatically raise and lower to keep a constant RMP and or speed. ![]() The more force placed on the plunger the greater the action taken by the hydraulic system to reduce the resistance on the tractor itself. For example the bottom hole would place less force on the plunger than the top hole because the top hole (because of the lever action) would offer less resistance. The top link bracket is like a lever the bottom is the pivot point and depending on which hole you place the top link will determine the amount force placed upon the plunger in the draft control. The draft control is basically an automatic adjustment of you hydraulic system depending on the amount of force placed upon it by the implement being used and the type of ground in which it is being used in. The three different holes are definitely an adjustment for the draft control, I can't tell you all of the particulars but I can give you a better idea. What works best for you when using a specific implement? My Questions: First, does anyone have a link to a detailed discussion of the theory and effect different top link bracket positions have on implement operations? Secondly, I would appreciate your operational experiences regarding this issue. However, the real issue I'm researching is what effect the different positions have when the various implements (plows, box blades, mowers, rakes, etc.) are in their working position? It appears to me that the implements work better when the top link is almost parallel to the ground. Selecting the bottom position (assuming the top link's overall length is not changed) will raise the implement's rear height to the maximum level. My Observations: First, it is very evident that changing positions top to bottom will effect the rear lifting height of the implement when the 3 point hitch is raised. I've read several tractor operational manuals and while they give general guidelines on different positions there is no definitive information regarding the theory behind the different adjustments or specific operational guidance. These brackets have three different positions which are 1 and 1/2 inches between pins. just find one big enought to drive into the gap under a tad bit of tension, and you will eliminate the free play, and then once again let that big spring handle compression and allow the rod to actuate the valving on the underside of the hyd topcover more correctly.Background: My tractors have three position top link brackets which allow the top link angle (between the tractor and the implement) to be changed depending upon which position is selected. That said, you can also shim it tight with a few large honkin flat washers with a notch cut out of them so they can straddle the rod. all the while tapping with a tack hammer. and allowing to cool, and then hitting with penetrating oil. some have reported luck by getting it red hot with a torch. 50 years of rust usually makes this more or less a 'unit' instead of individual parts, and you are likely to break it putting enough force on it to get it to screw in. ) but it mainly consists of screwing the youk ( that connects to the toplink rocker) into the rod. nd a tad different than the 1948 8n setup. The fergy I&T manual at TSC will show how to adjust it.( this pump and hyd system is identical to the ford 1939-1947 9n/2n setup. draft control is not adjusted, and that free play is activating the valving to lift the plow.
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